How Polish expatriate embraces, evolves Jeju’s haenyeo tradition
SEOGWIPO, Jeju Island — While the haenyeo, Korea’s legendary female divers of Jeju Island, often go unrecognized in their own country, there is a Polish woman who has taken the plunge, literally, into the life of a haenyeo.
Oliwia In’s move from Poland to Seoul in 2009 was an adventure, but her relocation to Jeju Island in 2022 opened a new chapter. Originally arriving with a love and curiosity for the island, In found herself drawn deeper into the local culture, diving shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the most resilient women she has ever met.
While In was still living in Seoul, her fascination with Jeju led her to write “Koreanska Syrena,” or “Korean Mermaid,” a novel about a young haenyeo, which was later translated into English under the title “Haemi.”
“I quit the company I worked for in Seoul when I wrote my book, so I didn’t have reasons to stay in Seoul. I wanted to live on Jeju Island, so I came here with my husband,” she told The Korea Times during a recent interview.
Though she originally had no intention of becoming a haenyeo, her deep interest in their culture led her to meet both veteran and novice divers, gaining insights into their diverse motivations. “I realized that not all of them became haenyeo because they loved the sea,” she said.
Despite her own fears of the deep sea, these encounters sparked a growing respect and ambition within her and led In to apply to the Beophwan Haenyeo School in Seogwipo, on the southern coast of Jeju Island.
“I didn’t come to Jeju to become a haenyeo, but I always wanted to contribute to preservation and revitalization of the haenyeo culture … I thought that if I became a haenyeo myself, I would still be able to spread the word about haenyeo culture through me, as a foreign haenyeo.”
The reality at haenyeo school surpassed her expectations, with a diverse array of students drawn to this ancient profession.
“Haenyeo school classmates are so diverse,” she said, adding many of her classmates are from the mainland, with fewer locals from Jeju itself. “Some arrive with romanticized notions of being a haenyeo, 한국을 influenced by media or a simple love for the ocean. They are like ‘I love the ocean,’ ‘I’ve been free diving’ or ‘I thought I could make a lot of money by becoming a haenyeo.’”
However, the reality of the rigorous and demanding nature of the work quickly dispels these illusions. Still, some choose to become a haenyeo even after their fantasies are shattered.
Unlike the informal training the earlier generations of haenyeo received from family members, today’s curriculum at haenyeo school emphasizes safety.
“In the past, women learned diving and fishing naturally from their families, where their main goal was to survive, with little formal safety instruction,” In said. “Now, the training is more safety-oriented, incorporating theoretical knowledge introduced by free diving.”